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VISIT GARFAGNANA INFORMATION AND SMALL
GUIDE
Garfagnana
is a territorial and cultural area of Tuscany, located in
the north of the region, in the province of Lucca,
between the Apuan Alps, the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines,
and bordering Versilia, Lunigiana and Lucca.
Inside the river Serchio flows and the whole area is
varied of different natural landscapes, rich in woods and
streams, hills and mountainous bands sometimes impassable and
rocky. |
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The
territory is wild and more isolated than the hills and vineyards that we
have learned to know with the classic Tuscan landscape, that of Chianti for
example, and the roads are winding and typical of the mountain, often
flanked by streams and watched over by medieval villages perched in the
highest peaks.
The entire valley offers unexpected travel
moments. An area of extraordinary natural beauty opens up before your eyes,
amidst 'marbled' mountains, villages of yesteryear and a flourishing nature.
Everything seems to be flowing slowly, and many people prefer these places
to escape the waves of tourists from Tuscany's most famous cities of art,
and to enjoy one of the most genuine and good food in Italy.
The whole valley offers a much more wooded
landscape than what is usually associated with Tuscany. Protected as it is
by the Apuan Alps to the west and the Apennines to the north, this is a
landscape that surprises for the lush and wild extension of its forests: Who
knows how it was centuries ago, and how much effort for pilgrims, soldiers,
or those who escaped from wars and poverty, who crossed the Via Clodia
or the eighteenth-century Via Vandelli, which arrived from Modena to
Massa through the Passo della Tambura.
In
Garfagnana there are no rich and great cities of art such as
Florence,
Lucca,
Pisa or
Siena (among many others) and not even the charming places on
the low hill, such as San Giminiano or Pienza. Here the rhythms are slower,
than in other times, more genuine than some would say, and in fact they seem
the same for centuries. There are charming villages, shops with an ancient
and pungent flavor, but above all there are
outdoor activities, trekking and cycling and speleological
mountain, walks in ancient villages and tasting of traditional
cuisine of the region.
We
are in the
surroundings of Lucca, and further up, beyond the plain, and
on the opposite side of
Versilia, along the Valley of the river Serchio, between
villages and beautiful scenery. Take
Barga, a small medieval town 35 km north of Lucca: a
fascinating town, full of narrow alleys and pastel-colored houses with
terracotta roofs. And then Castelnuovo Garfagnana: a beautiful town
historically known as a market town with beautiful surroundings, among which
stands out the Rocca Ariostesca, a charming medieval castle built in
the twelfth century.
The road from here, Castelnuovo, leads to
Massa, on the Versilia coast (through the SP13 and SP4)
offering a spectacular view of the mountains, with carved marble quarries
and a landscape full of woods. The panoramic view of the summit of Mount
Sumbra is also very beautiful, and you can reach it by taking the road
south-west of Castelnuovo through the localities of Cerretoli,
Stazzana and Vianova.
The
villages of Garfagnana are all particularly appreciated by visitors,
in addition to Barga and Castelnuovo, we also find Careggine,
Camporgiano, Castiglione Garfagnana, Coreglia
Anteminelli (and its ancient churches), Fabbriche di Vergemoli,
Fosciandora, Fornovolasco (an equally traditional village and
usually chosen by those preparing to go on excursions to Monte Forato),
Gallicano, Molazzana (dominated by a small fortress),
Minucciano, Piazza al Serchio, Pieve Fosciana, San
Romano in Garfagnana, Sillano Giuncugnano, Vagli Sotto,
Villa Collemandina. However, the territory cannot be reduced to a
geographical or administrative area, let alone a historical one or, for the
most part, a tourist one.
History
and culture play a much more predominant role in establishing the
boundaries of Garfagnana. Historians report that until the
eighteenth-nineteenth century the territory was divided into the sub-regions
'Este', 'Lucca' and 'Tuscany', including respectively in the first the
territory that went from factories of Vallico and Fosciandora northwards, in
the second countries such as Borgo a Mozzano, Coreglia, Pescaglia, Gallicano,
Castiglione and Minucciano, and in the last Barga. Some others, such as the
famous and historic spa town of Bagni di Lucca, being part of the
Val di Lima, was considered "more Pistoia than Lucca". It is
claimed that today the tendency is to divide geographically what were
historically the territories of the former Este dominion (Garfagnana),
a portion of the Val di Magra in the province of Massa-Carrara (Lunigiana)
and for Versilia the historical territories of the Florentine
Captaincy of Pietrasanta. Moreover, in medieval history both imperial
and papal documents speak of a single ethno-geographical entity for
Garfagnana and Lunigiana.
Then there are clearly the tourist trends,
which propose places that have never been part of one or another region,
neither historically nor culturally. It is difficult to distinguish where
one territory begins and where another ends, who is included and who is not,
if it weren't for the fact that in the end there is the desire to let go of
a unique natural landscape, capable of further increasing the
value of distinctions and sharing, making everything even more
appreciable. Despite historical rivalries, the boundaries dictated by the
local powers of the territory appear to be discoloured by a magical nature.
What you can appreciate today are the small
villages, churches and villages hidden in the hills. Until the
fifteenth century the area was under the influence of Lucca, its art,
culture and economy. Other powers followed one another, but without much
influence on their destiny. The settlement of the territory is mostly made
up of small and scattered communities, whose orchards, vineyards and pasture
land are separated by forests of oaks and chestnut trees. The villages are
picturesque, so are the churches and castles, but also the bridges or caves.
The Ponte del Diavolo (Devil's bridge),
for example, over the Serchio river, is still there and as it once allowed
pilgrims to pass along the
Via
Francigena, here arriving from Pontremoli and heading
for
Rome
(we find it between Borgo a Mozzano and Bagni di Lucca); there
is also the Fortress of Verrucole, near San Romano Garfagnana,
and also the Hermitage Calomini near Molazzana further south,
or even the Grotta del Vento (Wind Cave), near the municipality of
Vergemoli and Fornovalasco (and not far from Gallicano),
about 500 meters above sea level and characterized by a rich network of
tunnels, crystal clear water ponds, rivers and underground waterways, with
lots of stalactites and stalagmites. And then what about the ghost town of
Vagli di Sotto and the lake that encloses the village of Fabbriche
di Careggine in its depths?
And
then there is the cuisine of Garfagnana, simple, genuine and tasty.
There are no elaborate recipes and for this reason the products are even
more distinct and of high quality. There are numerous PDO and PGI brands and
typical products are renowned. Farro della Garfagnana is known
everywhere (sowing takes place in autumn, at an altitude of between 300 and
1000 metres, while harvesting takes place in summer), as are honey from
Garfagnana, pecorino cheese, chestnut flour and wine.
Who has heard of the Garfagnana Biroldo? It is a typical salami,
prepared by combining blood and other parts of the pig, spiced and then put
into cooking.
And
then there are the dishes like the Matuffi, a dish made of corn
polenta Formenton Otto File (variety grown in Garfagnana and in the Middle
Serchio Valley), composed of layers of meat sauce or, mushrooms, and
Parmesan cheese. And again, potato bread, typical of Garfagnana and the
Serchio Valley, with wheat flour and 15% boiled and mashed potatoes, a
little semolina and chopped, sea salt. There will also be flour for the
neccio della Garfagnana, which is also branded PDO, and will also serve
for the preparation of Catagnaccio (the flour is available in shops
and markets in early December of all years). Among the liqueurs, do not miss
the Elisir of China of Pieve Fosciana, all to discover.
... all you have to do is start your visit to
Garfagnana, ready?
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