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VISITING BARGA: INFORMATION AND TRAVEL
GUIDE
The picturesque Barga is located in the province of
Lucca, 410 meters
high on top of a hill overlooking the middle valley of the
river Serchio. In summary, 10 thousand inhabitants, a rich
history, beauty, gastronomy, ties with Scotland (yes) and
much more, including a beautiful jazz festival always very
popular. Giovanni Pascoli remembered it well, when on 27
September 1896 he wrote "I was looking for a secluded and
solitary place a year ago. I saw that there was beauty and I
stopped". The spirit of this place located in the middle
valley of the river Serchio, goes beyond the numbers.
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Barga,
which is like the heart of the Florentine or Grand Duchy Garfagnana, so
called because, although it belongs geographically to the valley mentioned
above, was politically separated from it from the end of the early Middle
Ages. Many popular awards to the town, including that of the 'most
beautiful villages in Italy', or 'Slow City'. Another curiosity
is the fact that Barga is known as the "Scottish city" of Italy. This is
because many people emigrated to Scotland in the last century and today,
their descendants come to visit their origins and so it is not uncommon to
find Scottish tourists on the streets.
In Barga history embraces the vicissitudes of an area that is
at times impervious, isolated, very beautiful, true; it was a Lombard feud,
but even before it was the stronghold of Ligurians and then a Latin outpost
with the Romans. A small town full of historical events and beautiful things
to see and do. Ideal place to 'stop', but also to move around and see what
else is around.
Barga
is a typical Italian village. It is located on top of the hill
Romeggio, hilly territory that pours on the plain of Lucca, a
city from which is about 40 km (all to do not really fast, even to admire
the landscape and mountains of
Garfagnana). Some might prefer to visit it for a short day
trip, perhaps even from
Florence or
Pisa (90 and 55 km respectively), others would prefer to
savor the most intimate secrets and stay there for longer. This is what we
are going to do, a short overnight stay that possibly will make us
understand how this small place has also attracted over time a large number
of foreigners, including several British (perhaps Scottish accent), and
artists, and then it is the desire to learn more about the ancient academy,
called 'dei differenti', founded in the distant seventeenth century
and arrived until the twentieth century in the presence of the greatest
Italian prose.
The
atmosphere remains almost secret in Barga. In the narrow alleys and
stairways, you can breathe in a special air, far from the incensant heat.
The urban structure proposes two distinct areas. One with the oldest and the
other more recent appearance, joined by a bridge, that of Viale Giovanni
Pascoli but dedicated to the heroes of Barga who fell in 1918, Leo
and Corrado Lombardini. You can admire the contrast: the green of the
vegetation just to the side and the color of the oldest buildings, in the
upper part of the village. There is also a red all-English cabin on the side
of the road, and it's no surprise (in recent years many British and
Americans have bought properties here and it's easy in the summer to meet
more foreigners than Italians).
Arriving by bus from Lucca (take it from Piazzale
Verdi) you reach the destination entering from Porta Reale (also
called Mancianella), on the other side of the oldest village. The medieval
Barga was in fact divided into three so-called "tertiers", to whom three
doors of the castle referred: Porta Mancianella also called royal (as
above), Porta Macchiaia also called Porta Latria, and Porta
di Borgo. Inside between them we find the houses of the once rich
people, who still bear a name. It was a good period when, as a free Commune
of the Marquisate, also favoured by the countess
Matilde of Canossa, Barga obtained the privileges from the
emperor Frederick I (in italiano known as Federico Barbarossa).
There
have been several historical characters linked to Barga, as well as
battles to grab or escape the dominion of one or another city. Pisans, Lucca,
Florentines, to whom the last Barghigiani allied themselves and from whom
they received economic benefits such as to achieve a long period of
prosperity. In fact, it was the tax exemptions obtained by the
Florentines on the trade of raw materials (in particular sold to the Estensi
and the Lucchesi), which allowed the development and opening of new
activities. The construction of Renaissance palaces is the most immediate
visible result, among these are those that bear the name of the Pancrazi,
Bonanni, Bertacchi, Salvi, Turignoli, Orlandi.
And on the subject of exemptions, these were important concessions, part of
a custom established in Barga, when one considers that there was already an
exemption on the tax on the register (the tax office, as it was called), the
exemption on the millstone, the general price of salts, the contract for
tobacco (it is documented that in this regard, cultivation and
production remained free).
Then there was the exemption for the manufacture of playing
cards and many others, including the one that freed the people of Barga from
paying duties on products transported and collected at the port of
Livorno. It is certain that what was once a territory full of
taxes if their exemption favoured the development of a small village like
this. Last but not least, it should be considered that the development of
some gunpowder factories in the Barga area was possible thanks to the
exemption of the hunting dust royalty. The bond with Florence lasted
until the Napoleonic occupation, interrupted only in the failed
attempt to 'bomb' the walls of Barga by a leader in the pay of the
Visconti of Milan, certain Piccinino, to whom the Florentines
opposed another famous leader, Francesco Sforza, who in fact freed
Barga from siege.
The
unification of Italy in the second half of the 19th century did not
benefit Barga, which in fact became impoverished by the abolition of
exemptions by Piedmontese and the consequent reduction in trade with
neighbouring territories. Many people began to leave the country and migrate
elsewhere, especially to England and America. The country emptied itself,
almost frozen in its past history. However, some time later, a migration to
the contrary took place and two characters in particular represented the
prelude: Giovanni Pascoli and John Bellany, the former poet,
the latter painter. Two different historical periods, same passion for Barga,
as it happened more recently for other names such as those of Susan
Sarandon or Paolo Nutini among others.
Giovanni Pascoli set up his home in Barca, and more precisely
in Castelvecchio di Barga, living from 1895 to 1912 in what is now
known as the Pascoli museum house. A place he dreamed of, beautiful,
relaxing, he would say, where he could admire the Apuan Alps and the
Apennines, on the other side of his native San Mauro di Romagna, on
the other side of his life until then. It was here that he had the
opportunity to compose the Songs of Castelvecchio, the Primi
Poemetti and the Poemi Conviviali, among other things. Bellany
came from Scotland, where she was born in 1942. He died in 2013 and
took up residence in this land, as if it were a new Provence, a
source of inspiration full of light and unusual moments of art. He said that
in Barga he had the feeling of being in a timeless place "...it
could be 1520 or it could be last Thursdy" (it can be 1520 or last
Thursday)". He loved this place for its timelessness and today Piazza
Angelio in Barga recalls the artist with a plaque.
Walking
through the streets of Barga you can admire several historical monuments.
Continuing and after entering the oldest part of the town from Porta Reale,
you cross a system of streets with irregular plans. There are alleys and
cariers. Squares, palaces, churches and monasteries.
The church of Santa Elisabetta became a conservatory, but was
inhabited in the fifteenth century by the Poor Clares, inside you can admire
a very beautiful work, an altarpiece of the Della Robbia school, as
well as other fine artistic expression. A wide ramp of stone steps leads us
to the Collegiate Church of San Cristoforo (Duomo di Barga) and to an
equally large panoramic terrace from which you can admire the roofs of the
houses below, the green hills, some farmhouses and in the background the
mountains. The church is in Romanesque style, built with local stone, from
the eleventh century.
Inside you can admire different ornaments: the holy water
stoups of the twelfth century, the fragment of a fresco, a baptismal font,
statues and then chapels housing precious Renaissance works. Other important
monuments follow, including the Palazzo Pretorio, the church of
the SS Crocifisso, the Via di Mezzo lined with ancient buildings,
the Loggia del Mercanti that refers to the sixteenth-century market,
established by Cosimo I de Medici, the Palazzo Pancrazzi.
Further on there is the Theatre of Differenti, to which we would like
to devote more attention in a separate section. The surroundings are also
convincing, with the church of San Francesco and its beautiful glazed
terracotta, probably by Della Robbia, or with the Parish Church of Santa
Maria a Loppia, a hamlet in the municipality of Barga.
In
the evening, when the light becomes more subdued, Barga is appreciated even
more. It will be for that musical note, which from the second half of August
accompanies and cheers, or attracting jazz music lovers from around
the world.
On the facades of noble palaces you will notice
anthropomorphic figures, which are said to have been put there because
they were propitiatory of fertility. They are usually given a lot of
attention by expressing a wish while holding down the index finger and
middle finger of their right hand on them. Legend often comes true.
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