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History of Lucca
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Etruscan in origin and even Ligurian before that, Lucca’s Roman
history is apparent, with thistle and decumanus still evident (via San Paolino
and via Fillungo). Its name derives, in all likelihood, from a Ligurian Celtic
word "Luck", which means "Place of the Marshes". Since ancient times the city
was an important road network, especially during the Roman period, when it
served as the intersection for the Clodia roads, Aurelia and Cassia.
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Lucca’s
origins and the Roman period
 It has held a strategic location -
close to rivers (Arno and Auser - the latter the current Serchio)
and well connected to the coastal urban centres, such as Pisa
and Luni, and those inland (Florence, Pistoia and Parma). The
Etruscans took over from the Ligurians, in turn overwhelmed by
the Romans in the late third century BC. The influence of Roman
rule has left many traces of itself on the urban landscape: the
city's cross plan, the theatre, the forum and the amphitheater (outside
of the perimeter of what were then the Roman walls), was used
for official events. In 55 BC, a meeting of the first
triumvirate between Gaius Julius Caesar, Pompey and Marcus
Licinius Crassus, was held in Lucca, in which Caesar was seen to
extend the proconsul in Gaul for a further five year. The outer
perimeter of Piazza Anfiteatro still shows the original outline
of the Roman amphitheater. The most impressive public monument
from the Roman period was the amphitheater, which could hold
over 10,000 spectators. Today, on top of its ruins, lies a
beautiful rounded piazza, the current Piazza Anfiteatro, where
you can imagine gladiators fighting in ancient times, whilst
simply sipping a beer or eating a pizza.
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From Christianization
to Middle Ages
San Paolino, the local patron saint,
was responsible for bringing Christianity to the city 50 years
after the birth of Christ. Lucca was the first capital of
Lombard-Tuscia, then part of the Kingdom of the Franks under
Carlo Magno. It was the Lombards, recently christianized in the
area by the bishop of Lucca Frediano (later made a saint), who
organised the first diocese of the city and dealt with the
constitution of the Pievi, the typical rural churches in the
surrounding area. We would have to wait a few more centuries,
coinciding with the first Crusade, in which many Lucchese took
part, to witness the rapid development of the area. Lucca’s fame
began to cross Italian and European borders, especially thanks
to its clever merchants. The city was greatly enriched by silk
production; trade in precious stones and the currency exchange
business, with links throughout Europe. The high quality of the
Lucchese cloth was due to the thinness of the material and the
beauty of the decoration created by skilled craftsmen. At
Palazzo Mansi, you can visit a workshop on cloth production with
antique looms.
In the two centuries which followed, the city was embellished
further in architectural beauty, with the construction of the
second ring of walls and many churches, including the Cattedrale
di San Martino. The houses began to take the form of
tower-houses (as was the case in other Tuscan cities during the
same period), of which the Guinigi Tower is the most dramatic
example remaining today. The city became a city in 1161;
in the second half of the 1200s the city walls were widened,
incorporating some of the outlying areas such as San Frediano
and the Amphitheatre. The growing wealth also brought about the
beginning of many bloody struggles between the aristocracy and
the mercantile bourgeoisie, events which were destined to last
for centuries to come. These factions were called Guelphs and
Ghibellines, the two opposing factions in Italian politics which
existed from the twelfth century until the birth of Lordships in
the fourteenth . The former were supporters of the pope, the
latter the Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire.
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The
Holy Face of Lucca - Middle Ages
In the Middle Ages the city grew significantly thanks to the
presence of the Holy Face (Il Volto Santo), a venerated relic
representing the crucified Christ, which is kept in the
Cathedral of San Martino today. The presence of this sacred
artifact made Lucca an essential stopping point for pilgrims
on their way from Rome to Canterbury on the ancient Via
Francigena, (Lucca was the stage n. 26). The Francigena was at
the time one of the most important transport routes in Europe.
For the people of Lucca, much of the 1200s was a period of great
commercial development, manufacturing and sales, despite the
constant clashes with the rival city of Pisa. With banking trade
and a virtual monopoly in the silk trade, the Lucchese became so
wealthy as to be able to lend their money to half of Europe,
including many crowned heads of the time, even becoming the "merchants
of the Pope". By 1200, the city had established itself as the
second largest Guelph municipality in Tuscany, after Florence.
Later it became Ghibelline at the behest of Castruccio
Castracani of the Antelminelli family, born in the present
Piazza Bernardini, and who in 1316 became the Lord of Lucca. The
latter implemented a policy of expansion at the expense of the
neighboring cities and especially challenged Guelph Florence,
succeeding in a clear defeat in 1325, in the Battle of Alton,
and even threatening to conquer it by digging under its walls.
Castracani ordered the construction of the Augusta fortress, to
be built where Piazza Napoleone todays stands, as a symbol of
his power and a reminder to the city. In 1328 Castracani was
powerful enough to have the privilege of accompanying the
emperor of the Holy Roman Empire, Louis of Bavaria, to Rome for
the coronation. Castruccio was struck suddenly with malaria
which led the city into anarchy and his son Henry was unable to
govern and to succeed him. The German mercenary troops, who were
in the territory of Lucca under the pay of the emperor, began to
revolt and took possession of the Duchy of Lucca, offering it
for sale to the highest bidder. Thus began a long decline for
the city and the area became very appealing to a number of
foreign powers. Ultimately, the Visconti of Milan prevailed and
twenty years later the city underwent a disdain still remembered
to this day: its submission to Pisa for 27 years, from 1349 to
1367. Lucca regained its freedom in 1370 through the
intervention of Emperor Charles IV, who reconstituted the
city republic in 1372. The new freedom coincided with a new
economic recovery, during which, with a shrewd foreign policy,
the city managed to regain some reputation in Europe, thanks to
its bankers and the silk trade.
The Signoria of Paolo
Guinigi
A very important figure of this
period was Paolo Guinigi, Lord of Lucca in 1400, an
enlightened ruler and governor, he took it upon himself to bring
about peace, the return of political exiles and an even greater
economy. At that time Guinigi was one of the richest men in the
world. The tower that bears his name is still the symbol of the
city and the prestige that his family gained in the past. A
massive building, standing on the corner of Via Sant'Andrea and
Via delle Chiavi D'Oro, known everywhere for its green clumps,
can be seen from far away. Due to the five oaks growing from its
top, it is impossible not to see it, from any perspective in
Lucca. The tower was designed both to highlight the importance
of the owner’s family, as well as for defensive purposes. It was
part of a closed complex, a real compact urban retreat, whose
narrow streets were easily barricaded and defended. In the early
fourteenth century, Lucca's urban landscape was dotted with more
than 250 towers and many bell towers.
In 1403, Paolo Guinigi married the young Ilaria del Carretto
, he a widow, she young and beautiful. The marriage came about
for political reasons, as was custom at the time, but the love
story between Paolo and Ilaria blossomed . Tragically, after
only two years, Ilaria died giving birth to their second
daughter Ilaria minor. Her wonderful memorial, created by
Jacopo della Quercia, immediately became an icon of art
history, admired in later centuries by poets and artists from
all over Europe . Today it is kept in the Cattedrale di San
Martino, and still arouses the wonder of those who visit it.
Buildings, such as Villa Guinigi, now home to the National
Museum and the Guinigi tower, still bear witness to the great
power that his family held. A few years later, in 1438, a
conspiracy put an end to their power, when peace with Florence
was supported militarily by the Visconti of Milan.
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1500 and 1600
The territorial integrity of the
republic had been compromised by its political fragility.
Garfagnana had been invaded in part by the Este, Barga
was finally passed to the Florentines, while Pietrasanta
was first occupied by the Genoese and then by the Florentines.
Despite this, territorially the small republic had almost become
a city-state, succeeding in developing economically in the
second half of the fifteenth century through international
business activities, such as the production of fine fabrics. The
silk industry was in crisis in the sixteenth century, due
to competition from other European centres. The crisis caused
discontent and culminated with the famous "
episode of 1531" also
known in history as the "revolt of the ragamuffins "; a
derogatory name given to silk weavers by the town’s oligarchy.
Thanks to its contacts with northern Europe, the city welcomed
in part the Protestant Reformation: in almost all major
towns merchant families were present, tolerated and somehow
hidden from "heretics". However, due to heated clashes between
Catholics and Protestants in Europe on the eve of the Thirty
Years War, many Lucchese citizens went into voluntary exile to
Geneva and other northern cities for fear of a Florentine cross
blessed by the Pope. The departure of some of the most important
families impoverished the city from capital and human and
cultural resources. The Lucchese Republic became even more
oligarchic with the reforms by Gonfaloniere Martino Bernardini
of 1556. The latter made public office accessible only to the
families of the most ancient ancestries. Between the late
fifteenth and early sixteenth century, the city began to change;
many of the aristocratic town buildings were renovated according
to the canons of Renaissance architecture. The medieval towers
were abandoned, almost all demolished during this period.
The 1600s were quite a
quiet century for Lucca. With the exception of the Wars in
Garfagnana, (1604-1620) successfully conducted against the Este
family to regain the territories lost earlier, the city enjoyed
a period of peace and prosperity, until the arrival
Napoleon's troops in 1799. With a cautious diplomatic
policy, which had the primary objective of maintaining the
independence of the city, Lucca chose to remain cautiously on
the edge of European political events, to avoid any possible
clash. As a means of defense and deterrent, it was decided to
create one last mighty system of walls whose construction was
dependent primarily on the state budget. The project was
completed in 1645. The end of the religious wars created new
problems due to the protectionist policies of France and
England. Trying to overcome this new situation, the Lucchese
merchants found new commercial outlets in northern and Eastern
Europe in countries such as Germany, Poland, Scandinavia and
Russia. Nevertheless, they failed to relive the mercantile
glories of the past. The economic crisis had not affected the
cultural vitality of the city, which maintained fervent activity
both the editorially and theatrically. On the 1st January, 1675,
the Theatro del Giglio was inaugurated, the artistic point of
reference throughout Tuscany. Several theatre performances were
even held in the private villas of the Lucca countryside.
From the sixteenth century, Lucca found it increasingly
difficult to invest capital abroad. As a result, the city began
investing more resources locally in agriculture, with land
reclamation and cultivation extended to the entire territory of
the Republic, further enriched by noble villas like Villa Reale
in Marlia. Even by the eighteenth century, Lucca was a small and
prosperous republic whose secure state of finances permitted the
elimination of public debt.
From the 1800s to the
present day
In 1800, two women played an
important role for the city: Elisa Bonaparte, sister
of Napoleon and Maria Luisa of Bourbon, daughter
of the King of Spain. Lucca, contested by both Austria and
France, managed to maintain its autonomy in 1801 compared to the
"Kingdom of Etruria" created for the Duchess Maria Luisa of
Bourbon. The state formed a republican system, managing to
maintain diplomatic relations with France, and achieved a
certain political balance, succeeding in fostering social
progression, such as the establishment of a University in 1802,
the reorganisation of the road system and the creation of a
network of local channels, fundamental for agricultural
development. Napoleon appointed a French ambassador of Corsican
origin, Antoine Christophe Saliceti, who restored the city,
formed a new governmental structure, opened schools and houses
of assistance and changed the structure of the republic in the
principality. For the Principality, French preference went to
Felice Baciocchi, husband of Elisa Bonaparte, Napoleon's
sister. Baiocchi was a military man, rather than a public
administrator, and he willingly gave all control of the state of
Lucca to Elisa. The latter immediately showed intelligence and
resourcefulness, surrounding herself with skilled employees and
carrying out important public works. At Palazzo Ducale
she had a refined courtyard built, inspired by the imperial
court of Paris. She acted as patron of the arts with artists and
writers and was involved in local government and in the court
life of the patricians of Lucca. Although Elisa’s time in the
city was limited, she nevertheless remained in its memory as one
of its most popular characters.
After the fall of Napoleon in 1817,
Elisa followed Maria Luisa of Bourbon, who established
cities of absolutist government , with positive effects in the
economy . Maria Luisa made the Palazzo Ducale her residence,
modifying it according to her taste and making it one of the
richest ruling posts in Italy, thanks to the architect of the
court, Lorenzo Nottolini. Alongside the latter, her court
merited Lucchese associates of the highest level, such as
Ascanio Mansi and Antonio Mazzarosa, who carryied out important
public interventions along with the promotion of education.
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Through Maria Luisa, the Walls
became a public park and the first ornate trees were planted to
decorate the avenues, drawing the admiration of walkers and
visitors to this day. Maria Luisa, her health deteriorating,
fled Lucca leaving power to her son, Charles Louis, a character
portrayed as capricious and bizarre with little capacity for
governance and much more adept to the worldly life and gambling.
In the mid-1800s, incapable of governing and facing financial
ruin, he gave Lucca to the Grand Duke of Tuscany, Leopold
II of Lorraine, who in exchange recognised the annuity and the
usufruct of his private properties in the area. Annexed to the
Grand Duchy, Lucca lost its age-old independence.
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Curiosities
Carlo Ludovico of Bourbon
sold the wonderful Lucca Palatine collection to pay for
his gambling debts , including paintings by Michelangelo, Titian,
Guercino,
Piero della Francesca, Perugino, Van Dyck,
Dürer and
many others. These are now in some of the most famous museums in
the world, purchased at this time by art dealers, especially
English. An incalculable loss for Lucca and the whole of Italy.
Given the passion of the Duke for gambling, it is not surprising
that close to Lucca, he opened Bagni di Lucca, the first
European casino.
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Curiosities
The birth of the Cassa di
Risparmio di Lucca (Bank of Lucca), dates from this period,
in 1835 to be precise. The historical headquarters of the bank
is in Palazzo Gigli, in Piazza San Giusto. The headquarters of
its most recent subsidiary, founded for the promotion of culture
and territory, is in the San Micheletto, near Porta Elisa; a
beautiful building with adjoining open cloister. The foundation
often hosts exhibitions and free admission events.
Like the rest of Tuscany, between 1860-1861, Lucca became part
of the Kingdom of Italy. The administrative reform of
1865 transformed the city from a small capital to a provincial
city, leading to a significant economic and cultural decline.
The largest population growth in the period forced many people
to emigrate. It was the emigration which characterised the city
at the beginning of the 1900s . Many Lucchese inhabitants,
driven by necessity, left for distant countries like the United
States, South America and Australia; many found their fortune
abroad thanks to their skills . The name Lucchesi is associated
throughout the world with exciting stories of men and women who
sought to find a better life and new opportunities far from
their country and family. An interesting story from this period
can be found in the Paolo Cresci Museum of Emigration.
Towards the end of the 1800s Lucca
had the fortune of giving birth to Giacomo Puccini, one
of the greatest composers of all time. More detailed information
can be found about the composer in our article, where we explore
his personal life and incredible career inlcuding his
world-famous and much-loved operas La Boheme, Tosca, Manon,
Lescault, Turandot etc.
In the 1900s the city's infrastructure grew and agricultural and
textile manufacturing companies prospered. One ancient tradition
in the province is the manufacture of paper , due to the
abundance of water present in the area.
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Curiosities
The first record of paper
production dates back to 1307, when the Guild of Stationers of
Lucca was established. The first real paper mill was born in the
mid-1500s. At the end of the 1600s there were 8 paper mills and
their numbers gradually grew until, in 1834, the invention of
the straw paper (yellow wrapping paper, made at the time with
water, lime and straw) gave an extraordinary impetus to growth
in the sector. Straw paper was easy to produce and inexpensive
and production took off: in 1911 there were 106 mills and in
1971 there were 211. Such was the importance of straw-paper,
that in Lucca’s Borgo Giannotti district, just outside the walls,
the cost of the raw material (straw) set the retail value for
the whole of Europe. When the demand for straw-paper came to an
end, the production of paper for domestic use and corrugated
card began. Some Lucca brands (Regina, Time, Pearl etc.) are
known throughout Italy and today Lucca is a papermaking centre
of global importance.
On the coast, at the beginning of 1900s, the tourist industry
of Versilia was born and has continued to develop since the
1930s. Shortly after, Viareggio and Forte dei Marmi became the
favorite destination for many celebrities: sports stars,
celebrities of TV and cinema, politicians. La Bussola e la
Capannina become historic places along the coast.
Lucca was spared from the
bombardments of the Second World War, which, nevertheless,
took the lives of many of its inhabitants. Nowadays, it attracts
many national and international tourists, is renowned for its
food and cultural excellence and hosts small and large events,
ranging from the historic exhibition of antiques (every third
weekend of each month), to very large events such as the
Summer Festival (music festival held outdoors in July) and
Lucca Comics & Games (international festival held in
Autumn, dedicated to comics, role-playing games, video games and
cosplayers), events drawing hundreds of thousands of people to
the city every year.
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Curiosities
Who are the Cosplayers who
invade Lucca in the Autumn? These are people who dress, talk and
behave like a character of their choice from the millions that
appear in video games, comics, animations etc. The word Cosplay
is a neologism, a combination of the English words costumes +
play. If you are visiting Lucca during this period, be prepared
to bump into Darth Vader from Star Wars, Daenerys Targaryendarth
from Game of Thrones and maybe also Lupin III , Nobi, Nobita ,
Pikachu, pirates, nymphs, robots ... curious?
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Ostelli Lucca
Ostelli Italia
Auberges de Jeunesse
Italie Hotel
Lucca
Carte Lucques
Karte von Lucca
Mapa Lucca
Map of Lucca
Carte
de la Toscane
Karte von Toskana
Mapa Toscana
Map of Tuscany
Carte d'Italie
Karte von Italien
Mapa Italia
Map of Italy
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