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Top 10 sights and attractions and things to do and see
in Lucca
One of the first things to do in Lucca is
going for a walk, actually two:
one along its city walls (le Mura) and the other along
Via
Fillungo. In the
introduction
to Lucca we explained how the walls,
which encircle the city centre, are a great way of getting
a great overview of the city. They stretch for more than 4 kilometres,
acting as a "kind" of elevated park overlooking the
town.
Their massive trees, offer a perfect place
for walkers, particularly in the summer months. We will now
look at Via Fillungo, one of the most picturesque and
popular streets.
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A walk along the Walls and Via Fillungo
A quick glance at the map and you will soon spot Lucca’s
Roman past: a cross formed by the intersection of its two
main streets: Via Fillungo and Via Cenami. These cross the
city vertically and Via San Paolino / Via Roma / Via Santa
Croce cross horizontally. A walk through any of these
streets will reveal a wealth of monuments, quaint boutiques,
cafés and chocolate shops, where you can stop off along the
way for some shopping or just to have a break. Along the way
are many historical shops, over a century old, with fine
wooden cabinets on display. Of particular note is Francesco
Lenci’s shop at number 69, la Profumeria Ristori at 83 and
Carli at 95, a jewelers from the late 1600s. While there are
fantastic shops all over the city centre, Via Fillungo, the
ancient vein of the city, could certainly be described as
the essence of shopping in the city.
Via Fillungo is a long narrow street, always crowded , with
libraries,
Art Nouveau windows and the distinguished palaces
of Boccella, Guinigi, Buonvisi, taking their name from
many of the city’s famous aristocratic families. At the end
or "al Fillungo", as the locals say, you will find
San
Frediano. This Romanesque basilica has a rare thirteenth
century mosaic set on its facade, unnaturally oriented,
almost theatrical. A symbol of the educated merchant elite
who ruled from 200-600 AD , the basilica contains many
stunning works of art, commissioned by prestigious foreign
artists. This includes the chapel, frescoed at the beginning
of 500 AD by the Bolognese Aspertini, as well as works of
French art and sculptures by
Jacopo della Quercia...Continue
reading on:
Via Fillungo.
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Airbnb Lucca
Perfect place to live your vacation in Lucca in the best
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The places of
Giacomo Puccini in Lucca
Lucca
is the birthplace of the famous composer Giacomo Puccini,
the father of such immortal operas as La Boheme, Turandot,
Tosca and Madame Butterfly. Many foreign tourists who visit
the city are attracted by its association with Puccini,
whose global popularity is often greater than that it enjoys
in Italy itself.
Along the Via San Paolino, before getting to the magnificent
Piazza San Michele...Continue reading on:
The places of
Giacomo Puccini in Lucca.
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The most
beautiful view in Lucca?
A
simple answer, the top of a tower! You can choose from the
Torre delle Ore (the Clock Tower, along via Fillungo), and
Guinigi Tower (in
Via Sant'Andrea). The former’s 207 steps will lead you to
spectacular views of the city from its highest vantage point.
In addition, the public clock (of which the tower gets its
name) dates from 1754 and was built by a Swiss, Louis Simon.
It is hand-wound. The Torre delle Ore is not lacking a
legend or two and comes complete with its own ghost!
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The
unmissable Guinigi Tower, with its oak trees growing out of
the top, is one of the most striking sights in the city.
Built of stone and brick and 45 meters high, it is located
between the privately owned medieval towers; it is the only
survivor of the city’s sixteenth century architecture, when
all the towers were torn down or damaged. The Tower stands
at the corner of Via Sant'Andrea and Via delle Chiavi D'Oro
and is undoubtedly one of the strangest and unmistakable
sights of Lucca. Adjacent to it is a fourteenth century
building, named after its owners Michele and Francesco
Guinigi, rich merchants and bankers of Lucca. This type of
tower was designed to highlight the importance of the family
owner, as well for defensive purposes. From the top they
could throw or propel projectiles towards rival families or
fellow citizens and/or their property nearby. Built
closely around the towers were houses for the members of the
family’s coterie, often with their own parish church. The
entire complex, as is evident in this street, served as a
compact urban retreat, whose narrow streets could easily be
barricaded and defended. The great artist and Victorian art
critic, John Ruskin, compared the Guinigi Tower’s beauty to
several other notable Italian towers "The Guinigi here,
Verona and the bell tower, and St. Mark's are all extremely
beautiful."
Over time the tower, along with the city walls, has become a
distinctive symbol of Lucca. With 230 steps, the panorama is
worth the small effort; from here you will have views of the
city, the Apuan Alps in the distance and the distinctive
circular outline of the Piazza dell'Anfiteatro.
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A corner of
Paradise
On
a map, or looking down at the city centre from above, you
will spot a triangle, whose vertices are represented by Piazza dell'Anfiteatro, Chiesa di San Frediano and Palazzo
Pfanner. Along Via Fillungo, to your right, you will find
the first vertex of the triangle, Piazza dell'Anfiteatro,
built right on top of a Roman amphitheater. It is a rounded
square, which is overlooked by colorful houses and is very
popular with tourists who can be found sipping drinks in one
of the many cafés. After visiting the square, head back on
via Fillungo, where you will discover a unique church. About
100 meters on the left you will discover the beautiful
Chiesa di San Frediano which we have already mentioned, with
its incredible mosaic silhouetted against the sky. Once you
have visited the church exit and turn left. Have a look at
the ceramic handicrafts on display in the shop on your left,
then climb the city walls and enjoy the view from the top of
Palazzo Pfanner and its monumental garden.
Continuing along the Via Cesare Battisti, you will notice
the presence of many noble palaces: Palazzo Pfanner (Via
degli Asili), Palazzo Lucchesini (home of the Machiavelli
Classical School), Palazzo Andriani, Orsucci, Santini, and
Minutoli Tegrimi, as well as the monumental Palazzo Tucci.
Palazzo
Pfanner
via degli Asili, 33
During your
walks to the Walls of Lucca you can not help but
notice the beautiful garden of Palazzo Pfanner,
a building that seems to come directly from a
fairytale from how impressive it is. This is one of
the oldest palaces in the city, once belonging to
the Moriconi family, a powerful family of
local merchants, active in the silk industry.
The building dates back to the second half of the
seventeenth century (in 1660 to be exact)...Continue
reading:
Pfanner Palace.
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The Botanical Gardens and i Fossi
The Botanical Gardens (L’Orto botanico), founded in 1820 by
Maria Luisa of Bourbon (from an initial conception by Elisa
Bonaparte in 1814), is Lucca’s most unique garden, suspended
between the walls and the city itself. It extends over two
hectares and is located in an area formerly reserved for
ancient ball sports and a burial ground for heretics. The
entrance is at the foot of the walls near the baluardo di
San Regolo. Here you will find many precious plants from
around the world, the beautiful greenhouse cactus and pond
lilies. The Garden is divided into two major parts, one that
includes the arboretum, the mound and the pond, the other
the botanical school and botanical greenhouses. In the
Cesare Bicchi Botanical Museum there are many interesting
historical documents on cultivation to be found. Leaving the
Orto gate, walk through Via del Fosso, divided in two by a
water channel along its entire length, once used for the
transportation of silk and now home to many children trying
to spot a fish! The channel or ditch (Il Fosso), which gives
its name to the street, connects to the old moat of the
medieval walls. On the left, you can still see the large
gateway of Porta di San Gervasio even today.
At this point, with the gateway to your left, you can choose
to go straight on or turn right. If you go straight down
Via dei Fossi to the end, you'll discover the statue of Madonna
dello Stellario, dating from the 1600s (placed on top of a
Corinthian plinth), and turning left, you'll find Piazza San
Francesco, which we will discuss shortly.
On the contrary, if you turn right, after a while you will
find the Chiesa della Santissima Trinità, and in front of
this Villa Bottini, whose gardens are open to the public (a
unique Christmas market takes place here every year).
Continuing further, you will encounter the Chiesa di San Micheletto, rebuilt in 1700, and the former Convento delle
Clarisse, now the headquarters of Ragghianti Foundation, a
cultural point of reference Lucca, which promotes knowledge
of modern art. Of note in this complex, is the beautiful
Gothic cloister and the small but interesting library
dedicated to the history of art. Further on your left, is
the Chiesa di San Ponziano, with a large adjoining monastery,
now home to a secondary school.
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The Re-naissance Piazza
At the end of Via dei Fossi turn right towards the grand
Re-naissance piazza, the beautiful Piazza San Francesco, once scarred by a car park, now fortunately, completely
pedestrianized. Here you will find the second largest
Franciscan convent in Italy, after Assisi. It is a large
complex, perfectly restored, which now houses the IMT, a
post graduate institute attended by some of the top students
from all over the world. Thus, in the piazza’s bars you will
hear the sounds of many languages! It is part of the Chiesa
di Santa Lucia, where the remains of Ilaria del Carretto, whose famous tomb are buried lies inside the Duomo. The
Chiesa di San Francesco, which among other things, houses
the remains of the other great Lucchese composer Luigi
Boccherini, has been beautifully restored and returned to
its former glory. Now desecrated, it hosts concerts and
events, and is open only on Saturdays and Sundays. Enter the
door on the left of the church and you will find yourself in
a little paradise: a charming cloister, very old and well
cared for. Crossing it you will come to Parco Mazzini, a
beautiful green space perfect for children.
Lucca’s
antique market
On the third Sunday of the month and the preceding Saturday,
the main squares of Lucca, are filled with exhibitors and
visitors with the Mercato Antiquario Lucchese. It involves
over 200 exhibitors from all over Italy and is considered
one of the most important in the country, not only for the
quality of the exhibits, but also for its scenic setting in
the streets and squares of the city. The market runs between
Via del Battistero, Piazza Antelminelli, Piazza San
Martino, Piazza San Giusto, Piazza San Giovanni and Piazza
Bernardini. The antique market dates back to 1970, but the
Lucchese antiquarian tradition is much older and was born in
the Middle Ages, when noble families sought exclusive pieces
throughout Europe to adorn their palaces, often competing at
the highest level . In particular, be sure not to miss the
exhibitors in Piazza San Martino. Head towards the fountain
and stop off at the café-restaurants you find behind: from
sun-kissed tables outside you will enjoy a magnificent view
of the Duomo and the stalls. If it is not market day, the
piazza is will still be there, with all of its charm. The
recommended route for antique lovers is via del Battistero
which has many antique shops open throughout the week.
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Cathedral of San Martino (Cattedrale di Lucca)
Piazza San Martino
The
Cathedral of Lucca is an excellent and captivating
example of Pisan-Lucchese architecture and Romanesque
architecture. The present church was probably built on
the foundations of a previous Romanesque church and was
completely rebuilt during the eleventh century. Only the
facade, designed in 1204 by Guidetto da Como, in
marble with alternating white and green colours, has
remained technically unfinished. The structure, born with
five naves and then reduced to three, is in fact the first
example of Pisan-Romanesque architecture in Lucca. Inside
you can admire in particular the works of Jacopo della
Quercia, Nicola Pisano, Matteo Civitali,
Ghirlandaio and Tintoretto. The interior is
Gothic in style, with an elegant three-mullioned window of
agile columns in the central nave, between round arches
supported by strong pillars. The northern transept leads to
the Sanctuary, which is characterized by the large fresco of
the altar Madonna with Child and Saints Stephen and John
the Baptist (Fra Bartolomeo, 1509). The Sacristy
also contains an important pictorial work, the Madonna
and Child surrounded by Saints by Domenico
Ghirlandaio. There are several works of art preserved in
the Cathedral of Lucca, which is best known for hosting an
exceptional masterpiece: the tomb of Ilaria del Carretto,
the work of Jacopo della Quercia, one of the finest
examples of funerary sculpture in Italy. The body of the
young woman, wife of Paolo Giunigi (who was lord of
Lucca from 1400 to 1430) who died in childbirth in 1405 at
the age of 26, has never been kept in the famous sarcophagus
and rests in the chapel of Santa Lucia in the Church
of San Francesco. Do not miss to admire the pillar adjacent
to the tower of the church, carved in a circular labyrinth
of the twelfth century, a symbol of the long and winding
road to Christian salvation ... Continue reading:
Cathedral of San Martino.
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Funeral
Monument in Ilaria del Carretto
No
funerary monument, we read in the history of art books,
equals the wonderful serenity, the intense and restrained
lyricism of the funerary monument of Ilaria del Carretto,
a true symbol of the city of Lucca.
It still seems to feel that rhythm of D'Annunzio, to stun
the soul between ancient lordships and graceful girls.
"Now women wear the white cornflowers closed in their
clothes, lying on the lid of the beautiful sepulchre; and
you had it mirrored, perhaps, your bank had its vestiges.
But today Ilaria del Carretto does not rule the land that
you bath, or Serchio [...] " (Gabriele D'Annunzio,
Elettra)...Continue reading about the
Funeral Monument to Ilaria del Carretto.
Piazza Napoleone
Turning
right from Piazza San Michele, along Via Vittorio Veneto, you will arrive in
Piazza Napoleone, named Piazza Grande by
the locals, one of the main squares in the city. Piazza
Napoleone is surrounded by tall ornate trees and along its
perimeter are several Renaissance and Gothic buildings, such
as Palazzo Ducale and many bars and shops. Every year in
July, it hosts the stage for the Summer Festival, an
international music festival which, over the years, has
attracted some of the greatest artists on the world music
scene.
Piazza
Napoleone as you see it today, was built in 1805, by order
of Elisa Baciocchi Bonaparte, Napoleon's sister (hence
the name of the square). Elisa demolished 4 blocks to open
up the space of the future square, something which was not
very appreciated by the locals. To the side of the square is
the town theatre, the Teatro del Giglio, born more
than 300 years ago, by decree by the Council of the Republic
of Lucca. The present name was given in 1819 by Maria Luisa
of Bourbon, who inaugurated the square after a long
renovation. The name of the theatre comes from the lily of
France, a symbol of the Capetian King, who held a place of
prominence in the emblem of the Bourbon dynasty and was the
direct descendant of the Bourbons from the French house, to
which the King, Louis IX and Carlo Magno both belonged. The
square often hosts an old-fashioned carousel, to the delight
of children, and is a meeting point for the city’s
inhabitants. During the summer season it hosts many events
such as the Summer Festival (rock music and international
pop), whilst during the Christmas period, the square is
occupied by stalls.
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Festivals and
events
There are many events in the city and September is no
exception: a month of events which are part of an initiative
called Settembre Lucchese. On the 13th September the Santa
Croce takes place; a festival which is very dear to Lucca’s
inhabitants. This religious celebration includes a
procession, Il Volto Santo, in which a crucifix is carried
through the streets which are lit up by thousands of candles.
Also, Murabilia, a gardening festival, is held in early
September on the ramparts of the city’s walls.
In October, LuccAutori, a literary festival takes place, as
well as the Lucca Film Festival, devoted to experimental and
independent cinema. Later in the month is the Lucca Comics
Games, a world-famous comic and games events, with as many
as 50,000 visitors a day. In December Il Desco is held, a
food and wine festival dedicated to local products (particularly
wine, oil, bread, vegetables, cheeses and meats), with
workshops for children and the opportunity to taste local
wines for adults. On the 27th April, the Feast of Santa Zita,
a flower festival takes place. On the 12th July is the Festa
di San Paolino, a festival for the patron-saint of the city,
with archers performing in Piazza San Martino and a
historical procession of people in costume. One for the
calendar in July, is the Lucca Summer Festival, with
previous guests such as Bob Dylan, Robin Williams, Elton
John...
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Lucchese villas and surrounding area
After
visiting Lucca, if you still have time, take a visit to the
surrounding countryside and walk along the "Via delle
Ville", to discover the most beautiful villas of the
territory. Available to visit
(at the time of writing, but it is always best to check) are
Villa Mansi in Segromigno, Villa Torrigiani in Camigliano (Baroque),
Villa Grabau and Villa Reale in Marlia. Often in winter
visits are by appointment and it is always best to call to
find out the opening hours, which vary according to the
seasons.
My
favorite is Villa Reale in Marlia, where at the beginning of
the 1800s, Elisa Bonaparte satisfied her desire to purchase
the neighboring properties, creating refined rooms and
expansive, scenic parkland.
In 1923 the property was purchased by the Count and Countess
Pecci-Blunt, who commissioned a French architect of fame,
Jacques Greber, to restore the park and gardens. He created
forests, streams, and the lake that you see today, all
adding to the sense of romance offered by the location.
Other areas surrounding Lucca that are worth visiting are:
Nozzano, a small village with a castle dating to 1300,
Borgo
a Mozzano, a picturesque village on the road to Garfagnana,
also famous for the humpback bridge dating back to 1000, the
Ponte della Maddalena (also known as Ponte del Diavolo -
Devil's Bridge) that crosses the river Serchio; Bagni di
Lucca, a beautiful spa town which has been a destination for
European artists for centuries and loved by English tourists;
Barga, a beautiful city with well-preserved and picturesque
steep streets and home to many cultural events.
Also to discover is Garfagnana, the mountainous area of the
province of Lucca, with mountains, hills and meadows, marked
by the River Serchio and several very characteristic hilltop
villages. There is so much natural and artistic beauty to
this area, for more information please refer to the section
on Garfagnana. Other beautiful places and so dear to Puccini
are Torre del Lago and the Versilia, with its famous beaches,
nightlife, carnival and love of art and culture.
After visiting Lucca, if time permits, we recommend to
discover
Lucca's
surroundings.
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